Background

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

La Vie Quotidienne

The other day, an inquisitive e-mail from my grandmother made me realize that I have yet to share the nitty gritty details of my daily life here in Paris. Clearly, I am not always scampering across the countryside. So what happens Monday-Thursday?
I'll start with a description of my home stay with the lively Madame Perrod. Thanks to this cute birthday card hanging on her door, I know her age.


But I doubt that I would have guessed it otherwise. She teaches exercise classes in her living room about six times a week. Once, she let me come. Most her students are older, so it was not super strenuous. Still, I find this pretty impressive.
Madame Perrod's apartment is simple but sweet. Here is my room:




My host mom and I have dinner together five nights a week, and I always look forward to our lively conversations. While I was initially sad not to be placed with a full-fledged family, I now appreciate the challenge/reward of carrying on a one-on-one conversation in French for an hour at dinner.
I shall never forget the day I learned that the French last used the guillotine in 1977. Since I had always associated the guillotine with la Révolution and la Terreur, I found this quite surprising. When I mentioned my discovery to Mme Perrod, however, she stiffened and reminded me that (unlike France) the US still administers the death penalty...touché. Mme Perrod is definitely a bit feisty (in a fun way) and also a prankster, as I discovered getting into bed one night...


Now, for my average day...
After breakfasting on a piece of Mme Perrod’s delicious homemade bread and jam, I scurry off to school. Depending on when/how I wake up, I either walk or take the metro. Obviously, I prefer the brisk half hour walk, which gives me the chance to say bonjour to la Tour Eiffel.


And la Bastille.


Before admiring the architectural harmony of more recent additions to the cityscape.


Then come classes, with a break for lunch. For the first month, I picnicked nearly every day in the sunny Luxembourg gardens by my school. Heavenly experience, but unless I learn to resist the cold weather, I may be fleeing indoors soon…
After classes, I like to go on some sort of jaunt. Again, the warm weather of September usually tempted me out to the parks of Paris. As it gets cooler, I am more inclined to set of for a walk armed with one of the many guidebooks Mom gave me. I discover something new about Paris every time.
After dinner, I usually head out to choir practice or a play or just a soirée with friends. If I’m lucky, I return on the hour, which means I get to see La Tour Eiffel a-sparkling on my walk back from the metro. 
Hopefully, that gives you a taste of ma vie quotidienne here in Paris!

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Another Kind of Feast

No wine and cheese tasting on Saturday, but we did see some beautiful sites. 
First, we visited Les Hospices de Beaune, a hospital founded in 1443 as a charitable institution. Most buildings I've visited from that time period are churches or castles. Or castles or churches.
Honestly, those big grand places tend to worry me. I can't help but wonder how many "commoners" suffered in poverty to fund such massive projects. So it was good to see at least one trace of medieval benevolence. Still pretty ornate, isn't it?


The beds lined the walls of a long room that felt almost like a chapel. 



After this, we headed to the town of Vézelay. Back in the day, thousands of pilgrims used to climb up to this basilica to pay homage to the relics of Mary Magdalene, the patron saint of prisoners. 



When our guide told us we were about to see the most beautiful Christian basilica in the world, I didn't quite believe her. Saint Peters', anyone? 
But then I walked in the doors. 


I could write a novella on the experience, but let it suffice to say that the airy, simple beauty of this basilica took my breath away. 
And, of course, I cherished my long breath of fresh country air. 


This is what it's like to feel alive. 

                                       

Monday, October 10, 2011

Wine and Cheese? Yes, please!


Last weekend, the Hollins gals (minus Oktoberfest-ing Carlee) hopped on a train for Bourgogne. 
Our first stop was Dijon (yes, like the mustard). We did not stay nearly long enough to get a feel for the town, but I did appreciate the colorful tile roofs. Especially with this man posed oh-so-picturesquely in the window.


I also liked the follow-the-owl plaques along the road. 


Allegedly, the architect of the church in Dijon was supposed to observe the sins of the townspeople then immortalize them as stone demons on the façade of the church. He was much too busy for this, but a snoopy little owl helped him out. Here's the finished product. 


After Dijon, we headed to the Gaugry Fromagerie to learn how to make cheese. While the aroma/atmosphere could not rival that of Mulot's pâtisserie, the process was quite fascinating.


And, of course, we got to taste some cheese. : )


Right after this, we drove through the beautiful vineyards of Borgougne, also known as Le Côte d’Or (the Golden Coast) due to its autumnal gleam. Beautiful.



Then we had a wine-tasting at le Domaine de Serrigny. I have not yet developed a taste for wine, but sampling a dozen varieties in a row definitely deepened my understanding of the art.


We spent the night in the lovable village of Beaune. Although I did not quite approve of their Halloween-esque lighting...


I loved the market in the morning! 


And found this booth especially tempting. A lot of older ladies bring rolling baskets (like suitcases!) to the market. I must invest in one of these. 


Stay tuned for more on our Saturday adventures! 

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Here Comes Emily!

Last Saturday, Emily came to visit me in Paris for the day. At least, she was going to come for the day…but then she found out that all the trains returning to Aix-en-Provence were full. We had a long conference with this man, trying to find a return ticket. 


He was nice, but I’m pretty sure he suggested/retracted about a dozen options (one of which included an 8 hour layover in Lyon) before securing a ticket to return Sunday at 5. That settled, we set off for our adventures! 
 We began with Montparnesse, where I showed her my lovely school.



After a picnic in the Luxembourg gardens, we rambled around Paris. I showed her the Marais, one of my favorite districts in Paris. ‘Twas here that I fell in love with falafels.


After some more wandering, we paused for a macaron-break in Tuilieries.


Exhausted, we dropped by my apartment for a quick siesta. Right around the corner, there was an enormous yard sale.


I think the goats were just for decoration.



That night, we saw “Le Petit Prince,” a grand spectacle! It was a beautiful mixture of narration, music, lights, and fireworks. Who knew that you could set off fireworks like this in the middle of a city??



Sunday afternoon, we had a delicious lunch.


Then went gallery hopping in Menilmontant!


 The next few pictures are from our very favorite gallery. We definitely got some kindred spirit vibes.






I loved looking at all the pretty paints and supplies.  




And smelling the pretty roses in the courtyards.




 I could not have wished for a better weekend. Thank you, French Train System, for landing Miss Emily in Paris for an extra day of laughter, exploration, and good conversation!


Monday, October 3, 2011

Katie and the Chocolate Factory


When I’m walking down the street, I love to peer into the windows of boulangeries, pâtisseries, and chocolateries. The carefully sculpted raspberry tarts and chocolate truffles look like teensy sculptures in a museum of culinary arts.
The other morning, I got the chance to tour the pâtisserie and chocolaterie of Gerard Mulot. It was such a treat to see how the French make their beautiful confections.
When we entered the store, we immediately got a preview of the wonders to come. I wouldn’t mind taking one of these home (were it not for the price tags, upwards of 50 euros - eek!)




Before entering the kitchens, we donned some super stylish robes. Paris is known for its high fashion, n’est-ce pas?



This delightful man then showed us how to make macarons. He’s been doing this for over 30 years!





This nifty machine may go on my Christmas wish list...



Caramel macarons - yum!


Then it was time to learn about chocolate! The chocolatier who gave us the tour was just voted the best Young Chocolatier in France. I love how passionate he is about chocolate. His phone is full of pictures of his creations - chocolate Hello Kittys, chocolate squirrels, chocolate everything!


Molds for truffel-making.


Maybe not quite as impressive as Willy Wonka's chocolate waterfall. But still pretty cool.



After all that, I simply had to buy this delicious raspberry concoction.


Yummmm!


My new culinary goal: macarons!